12 July 2021

User-Made Python Modules

In the Qt5 post, I mentioned that I should break my 4000+ line programme down into modules, and near the start of this month, I decided to try it out with a different programme that is much smaller and simpler. Because the large programme has about 38 classes, I was going to want a separate folder called lib within the folder that the main script is in, but I was needing to know how to import from it. I searched around for a while, but wasn't finding anything useful, and though I found something, the answer says:
Note that injecting directories into sys.path is not the usual way to set up Python to search for modules. Usually it is preferable to add /home/jake/Documents to your PYTHONPATH environment variable.
I think the reasoning behind avoiding adding paths to sys.path is because it might not work across different computers (not "portable"). CircuitPython MCUs with modules on SD cards require /sd/ to be added to sys.path because there is no other option (that I know of).

Anyway, I did end up finding what I wanted, but I wish it had more graphics instead of a bunch of text and examples to follow along with. I found from there that it was just import folder.module, so I went to try it out with the simpler programme and it worked with no other changes besides the import. I went to copying portions of the large programme to make a much smaller testbed, and started off with the common functions, which was aptly named common.py. There were some changes I did need to make, one of which was to move the global variable regex into its own class and function to return the regular expression used for input validation. Another was to move the setting clipboard text function from the main window to its own class and function, another was to write/get the required precision to a file because there wouldn't be an easy way to be able to get it from the combo box of the main window, and the last major one was to move the message box function from the main window. I tested a couple simple classes and made adjustments as necessary when Python gave me errors, and eventually played around with stuff in common.py a bit. I found out that I could just have a function for regex, setting clipboard text, and messagebox, so I made the according changes and it worked just fine.

Changing the large programme was fairly easy, because I just had to replace regex with regex() and window.to_clip( to to_clip( before I even started modulisation of any of the 37 calculation classes, and the modulisation just required me to import the usual PyQt5 classes, common.py, changing the working directory when necessary (for reference images), and importing the module in the main script. I also made some quality-of-life improvements to the main script as well (now that it's a few hundred lines instead of a few thousand), and also took the time to insert a "clear/reset calculator" function to each of the modules instead of relying on old code that doesn't always work or causes the programme to crash. Anyway, it's much more manageable, and there's not a whole lot else to really say.

I'll now go over some of the things that might be useful for anyone looking for the information. First, let's start with a file tree that will be used as reference.
Example filetree:
  • project/
    • main.py
    • modules/
      • module1.py
      • module2.py
      • sub_modules/
        • sub_module1.py
        • sub_module2.py

Things to know:
  • The modules/ folder must be in the same place as main.py (within project/ in this case).
  • The structure used for import is modules.module1 for modules/module1.py, and modules.sub_modules.sub_module1.py for modules/sub_modules/sub_module1.py.
  • If main.py imports module2.py, which needs to import module1.py, then module2.py would still use modules.module1 for importing because main.py serves as the basis for the location.
  • Modules can contain (class-less) functions and classes.
  • Use from modules.module1 import * instead of import modules.module1 if you'd like to use function or class names as-is (function() instead of modules.module1.function()). (Probably obvious if you've used Python enough.)

I think that's everything, since I have nothing else in my notes.

09 July 2021

Parts Inventory, and Digi-Key and Mouser Data Matrix Barcodes

Hey, look at that, an actual blog post that doesn't require me to remember things from a week or more ago! Anyway, I think I might've mentioned in some recent post that I was going to inventory all the parts I have so it's easier to keep track of what I have, instead of having to dig through a couple boxes because "I think I have...".

The first step was to get a barcode scanner that also reads 2D barcodes and is reasonably-priced, and SparkFun's 2D Barcode Scanner Breakout was the answer. When I found it, I thought their stock of 42 would be okay, but when I looked at it the next day, they were all gone! I think I sat for a few days before I found that SparkFun does have a "wait for backorder items before shipping" option, so I went ahead and put in an order, since they said they had about 144 units being made. I technically would've been fine with the module itself, but I don't know if they'll ever be bringing them back in stock, since it's part of their "SparkX" line which is for experimental stuff. Looking through their blog yesterday, I guess the scanner breakout was released 28 May, so maybe because it's such a new product, they're focusing all the modules to the breakout boards until demand goes down. Hell, even as I write this, they're out of stock once again and planning on making 60 more; the "Top Sellers" tab on their front page contains the scanner breakout, and for a good reason.

I got the scanner a couple days ago and played around with it some... I mean I was seriously like this:


And it was great being able to scan something that would be automatically entered in a spreadsheet, text editor, whatever. While the barcode scanner app for Android by ZXing Team is a long-time favourite of mine, it's not a very streamlined approach when I need to get the scanned data to my computer (I have it set to auto-copy the scanned contents to the clipboard, and then I paste it into Discord).

Digi-Key's labels for each bag of parts contains a Data Matrix code (at least the newer ones do, I don't know when they switched over, but I have some Digi-Key bags at work that were from 2015 that has a 1D barcode), and scanning that with the barcode scanner (the one from SparkFun) yielded info similar to this:
[)>06P559-1099-ND1PPS2801A-4-AK1K7013275410K8165562911K14LJPQ1311ZPICK12Z956474013Z5583520Z00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000
Which I could kinda figure out stuff from, but I needed more info. I did a quick search and found some people trying to figure it out (this being one), but no one had a complete list, so I decided to just figure it out myself. At work, I scanned one with the app and found some non-printing characters as "tofu" and it made a lot more sense to me.

♫A little bit of tofu in the text.♫

Using Discord, I pasted it within a code box so that I don't lose the tofu, and though they don't show, they were still there when I transferred it into Mousepad.

Tofu, demystified.

I use CudaText as my main text editor, but well, the non-printing characters are less obvious. Anyway, Unicode 001d is "Information Separator Three" or "[GS]" (Group Separator), and 001e is "Information Separator Two" or "[RS]" (Record Separator). I didn't really care what they were besides that they were non-printing control characters, but well, the difference between 001d and 001e would kinda serve me later. Looking at the data in Mousepad with the boxed control characters, It was much easier to make things out, and I was able to figure out that the "category" markers precede whatever number they are. I think it'll just be easier to share the findings first before I talk about certain items individually.

Digi-Key barcode data (using data from Mousepad screenshot):
  1. [)>
    • Probably a scanning software thing.
  2. 06
    • Probably another scanning software thing, this number is the same between Digi-Key and Mouser.
  3. P559-1099-ND
    • Part number, either customer-specified or retailer-specified, prefixed with P.
  4. 1PPS2801A-4-A
    • Manufacturer part number, prefixed with 1P.
  5. K9438
    • Customer purchase order (PO) number, prefixed with K, may be blank.
  6. 1K70132754
    • Sales order (SO) number, prefixed with 1K.
  7. 10K81655629
    • Invoice number, prefixed with 10K.
  8. 11K1
    • No idea what this is, but seems to always be 1, prefixed with 11K.
  9. 4LJP
  10. Q13
    • Quantity of items, prefixed with Q.
  11. 11ZPICK
    • No idea what this is, but seems to always be PICK, prefixed with 11Z.
  12. 12Z9564740
    • Part ID, prefixed with 12Z.
  13. 13Z55835
    • Load ID, prefixed with 13Z.
  14. 20Z00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000
    • Probably some sort of filler, prefixed with 20Z
I had thought 11K might've been MSL, but nope, the NeoPixels have the same value of 1. The invoice number (10K) stumped me for a little, until I went to check an email that I probably still had, and sure enough, the numbers matched. Since I don't need purchase order numbers for my personal orders, work was the best bet for figuring out K, though before scanning the two samples at work, I wasn't entirely sure how the data was structured.

While at work, I decided to scan Mouser's to see what it contained, and it was much less. Let's start with a screenshot of the data, and then jump right into the breakdown.

Miniscule compared to Digi-Key.

Mouser barcode data:
  1. >[)>06
    • Probably scanning software stuff. There's no 001e control character before 06, but at the least, the 06 is still the same in comparison to Digi-Key.
  2. K9439
    • Customer purchase order (PO) number, prefixed with K, web order number is used if customer does not provide a PO number.
  3. 14K022
    • Line item number (the line the item appears on an invoice, packing list, etc.), prefixed with 14K.
  4. PTP0194
    • Customer-specified part number, prefixed with P.
  5. 1P02-09-1117 (Cut Strip)
    • Manufacturer part number, prefixed with 1P, appears instead if there is no customer-specified part number. (This is from something else and isn't in/from the image.)
  6. Q10
    • Quantity of items, prefixed with Q.
  7. 11K062059574
    • Invoice number, prefixed with 11K.
  8. 4LLI
  9. 1VNeutrik
    • Manufacturer name, prefixed with 1V, may not be present.
I wasn't paying too much attention yesterday, so I thought Digi-Key and Mouser use the same structure, but I guess not. It's possible 11K for Digi-Key might be an another invoice number field, but I can't say for sure, and it's something I don't care about in all honesty. I was double-checking 11K for Mouser with some other part and found 1V, which might be something new, but again, not worthwhile for me. At the least, hopefully people looking for the structure find this blog post and is helpful to them.

Moving on. Because I found out about the control characters, I needed to figure out a way for the barcode scanner to send them. I tried the "serial over USB" (USB-COM) mode of the barcode scanner and ended up in an empty screen when loading up /dev/ttyACM1 (/dev/ttyACM0 is my Powermate), so I had to go the serial over UART route with a dev board. I used the Trinket M0 because it's small, and hooking up the barcode scanner to it was easy after I got a 6-position header soldered to the barcode scanner. I then pulled up a UART serial Adafruit guide as reference and had to try to fill in the blanks myself. It didn't seem to print anything out properly, and I tried baud rates of 9600 and 115200 in the code which both were claimed as the default in the settings manual (9600 is listed first as the default, but then 115200 is listed as the default three times after that, but eventually, I decided to scan the 115200 baud rate setting. And that was the problem all along, some mysterious default baud rate setting (I had a thought to go through them individually, but I didn't feel like it). I also tried USB-COM mode again and scanned the 115200 baud rate setting, but no dice, so I gave that mode up entirely.

A new problem arose, the printed text still contained no control characters, but the code I used has a line for printing the raw data, and after commenting that out, huzzah! I forgot when I swapped my janky wire set up for the 20-position GPIO set I bought along with the barcode scanner, but I did so because the ground wire kept popping off the barcode scanner header, and honestly, I should've done it sooner since it had a much better hold on the header pins. Anyway, the next issue was the fact that the raw data is a bytearray, and I needed to convert it to a string. Well, I thought I did, but I eventually realised that the conversion in the code was actually keeping the control characters, and that print() was the culprit of not printing them (I mean, they're called "non-printing" characters for a reason). While trying to see if print() had some sort of option to maybe print the characters, my eyes glanced over "sep" and I was reminded of replace(). Huge duh moment. I used a tab character to replace 001d and had replace() replace 001e with nothing, this would make things much more printable.

It was kinda in that mess where I was also thinking of trying to write the raw data to a file, and because I normally use open() in text, it took me a moment to remember about its ability to write bytes. While it did work with normal Python, CircuitPython refused to do it in the test because the flash appeared as read-only to it, and though I would've used an SD card over SPI, I didn't want to make things harder than it should be (plus I had just ordered the micro SD card breakout from Adafruit, so I would've had to wait anyway). Anyway, I think it was after I got replace() into the code (or it might've been a little before?) was when I decided to use the USB-HID library to emulate a keyboard, and because there's a library that allows a string as the input of what to send to the computer, I wanted to utilise that. The problem is that the examples changed with the documentation, so I had to try to figure it out, which wasn't too hard, but I was able to get it to work. It doesn't type nearly as fast as the barcode scanner directly, but at least I can get the control characters for processing before sending to the computer.

Because the .read() command for the UART serial only lasts for a bit, it was hard to test in the CircuitPython console, but it was fine in the code because of the looping. I also tried to send commands to the barcode scanner, but it was difficult at first because I forgot that there was a command prefix it looks for (^_^, caret underscore caret, I'm not kidding), and when I got it in there, it worked as intended. There was some other things I did/tried, but I won't talk about it because it's not really worthwhile.

The output (or at least simulated) from the MCU. I forgot the newline, but oh well.

Though I could do all the processing on the MCU of the stuff I care about (manufacturer's part number mainly), I wanted to keep the processing that needs to be done on the MCU as minimal as possible to make the job of scanning the inventory as quick as possible. I also added line in the code to send the save hotkey after it "types" the data, so that it's as automated as it can get. I still need to write the code for processing the file down to part numbers, but that won't be too hard and Pod will have it done before the snap of a finger.

Originally, I was thinking of buying a second barcode scanner (before I even bought the first) for a "scan and display" sort of thing, but this morning, I was considering on buying a third to keep in UART mode so that I don't have to change the settings. Along with this "third" barcode scanner, I also thought to make a custom breakout board with the ATSAMD21E18A-A because I thought I could maybe still get them, but it seems like Mouser's finally run out. Anyway, it would make it a single-board device instead of having two boards and some wires and be a little less awkward to use than the current setup with the Trinket M0. I'll still design it and such, but I won't be able finish the assembly for a while. Because I didn't really go over it that well, one would be in the fairly default mode for when I don't expect to run into control characters that would have the original board, another would be the self-contained "scan and display", and the last would be the UART version for when I need/expect control characters. Anyway, for anyone wanting the code for an Adafruit CircuitPython dev board to be able to get the above output with the barcode scanner, here's the not-entirely-pretty code based off of the code in the Adafruit guide I used:

import board
import busio
import digitalio
import usb_hid
from adafruit_hid.keyboard import Keyboard
from adafruit_hid.keyboard_layout_us import KeyboardLayoutUS

uart = busio.UART(board.TX, board.RX, baudrate=115200) #you can use any baud rate, just make sure your scanner is set to that rate!
kbd = Keyboard(usb_hid.devices) #make the keyboard object
klo = KeyboardLayoutUS(kbd) #make the keyboard layout object with the keyboard object

while True:
    data = uart.read() #because the barcode length is unknown, don't set an amount of bytes to read
    if data is not None:
        data_string = ''.join([chr(b) for b in data]) #this converts the data to a normal string
        data_string = data_string.replace("\x1d", "\t").replace("\x1e", "").replace("\r", "\n") #make the necessary replacements (the barcode scanner defaults to \r for newline, but can be changed to \n, so it's there in case of forgetfulness)
        klo.write(data_string) #use the keyboard layout object to "type" the data string
        kbd.send(224,22) #send ctrl+s to save the file, 224 is the keycode for control, 22 is the keycode for s

Important thing to note is to keep the focus in the target programme, otherwise you could lose the data from the scan and/or make things weird. Also, make sure RX of the scanner is connected to TX of the dev board, and TX of the scanner is connected to the RX of the dev board! But anyway, with this code, you just use the barcode scanner's scan button like normal and the MCU will spit out the data after it gets and processes it.

I need to double-check what appears in the Mouser barcode for my stuff, since I don't use/have PO numbers, and based on how the P/1P is for Mouser, I'm thinking I'll se a 1K and the corresponding number. I'll edit this when I confirm it and probably will say that I did below.

Found that Mouser uses the web order number for the PO number, so no 1K category in the place of K. Also found that Digi-Key's packing list has some small Data Matrix codes that include Unicode 0004, which is "End of Transmission". I won't modify the above code, but if the codes on the packing list are to be used, just tack on .replace("\x04","") to the replacement chain.

(Edit: 2021-07-17)
While doing some testing for projects that include a graphic screen of some sort (the aforementioned "scan and display" and maybe the PSU tester), I came across one of my old code tests when I was playing around with the Trinket M0 and various libraries. If you're using Linux of some sort, or at least something that allows you to type Unicode characters using Ctrl+Shift+U, then you can actually type any Unicode character using Adafruit's adafruit_hid.keyboard library. I completely forgot about this and I honestly should've remembered because it saves the chain of replacements. Anyway, the code for raw output:

import board
import busio
import digitalio
import usb_hid
from adafruit_hid.keyboard import Keyboard
from adafruit_hid.keyboard_layout_us import KeyboardLayoutUS

uart = busio.UART(board.TX, board.RX, baudrate=115200) #you can use any baud rate, just make sure your scanner is set to that rate!
kbd = Keyboard(usb_hid.devices) #make the keyboard object
klo = KeyboardLayoutUS(kbd) #make the keyboard layout object with the keyboard object

def send_unicode(char): #define a function to send the untypeable unicode character
    parts = hex(ord(char))[2:] #get the hexadecimal value of the untypable character without the "0x" prefix
    kbd.send(224,225,24) #send ctrl+shift+u so that the unicode value can be typed
    klo.write(parts) #send the unicode value
    kbd.send(44) #send space to finish the unicode entry

while True:
    data = uart.read() #because the barcode length is unknown, don't set an amount of bytes to read
    if data is not None:
        data_string = ''.join([chr(b) for b in data]) #this converts the data to a normal string
        for char in data_string: #iterate through each character in data_string
            try:
                klo.write(char) #try sending the character normally
            except:
                send_unicode(char) #or send it the other way if it can't be typed
        kbd.send(224,22) #send ctrl+s to save the file, 224 is the keycode for control, 22 is the keycode for s

02 July 2021

Charging & Cooling Station

I completely forgot about this project until one of the previous posts. Anyway, it was sometime in 2019 when I fully got onto USB-C PD charging (I don't think I had any PD chargers beforehand), and with my phone or dap getting warm (not dangerously warm), I decided to use a fan to help keep the phone or DAP cool as it charged.

DAP screen-down under a 120mm fan while charging.

I decided to build my own charging station since all the ones on the market had too many slots, were much larger than I needed, and didn't have a fan. I decided on some ABS plastic from TAP Plastics since I could have them cut into the sizes I need, and I was thinking 0.25 inch thickness would be fine, but I decided on 0.375 inch thickness just to be safe. The fans I decided on was two 80mm fans since that was the best size to keep the plastic sheets all the same size.

I also had a charger with QC (I don't remember which QC version), and decided to use that so I could manage the speed of the fans. I looked around on how the QC thing worked, and found a post where someone used an MCU to be able to get the other voltages. I only needed the voltages that D+ and D- would need to be at for the voltages I wanted (9 and 12), so the rest was brushed off because I was going to do it with discrete parts. Because I knew that stepping 12 (or even 9) volts down to 3.3 volts would heat up the voltage regulator, I was going to need a fan on it and I had a small fan for doing so. With the voltage regulator, I also went with a DPak package because I wanted it simple and beefy (even if the output is 500mA).

Voltages D+ and D- need to be at for a specific voltage.

With the above table, I only needed 0.6 and 3.3 volts for D+, and GND and 0.6 volts for D-, which made it pretty easy because I could just use a couple signal relays to switch between the voltages. I also used a dual anode to common cathode diode to be able to control the D- relay regardless if I needed 9 or 12 volts since 0.6 was on the normally open leg of the relay. I also used a USB B connector because I wanted something robust. I put some ESD diodes in as well to try to dissipate esd from the mounting screws (and maybe remove any charge from the ABS plastic), but well, I didn't fully understand it and I learned fairly recently that I used them wrong. I wanted to via stitch the unused space for maximum heat dissipation, but I didn't to put all the vias in myself. Rather, I think I started to, but I looked for some other way instead, which was create_drill_line_array.ulp from Dangerous Prototypes. The script, rather user language program (ulp), worked well enough, but I found that there was certain things it didn't like, and also that it will stack vias on top of each other if you're not careful. Though I did the vias one line at a time, it was still faster than doing it one via at a time. I think it's time to show the board...

Vias, vias everwhere.

I was forced to use an SPDT switch for power, since the SPST switch I wanted wasn't normally stocked. I can't remember if the SPDT or SP3T switch has a threaded bushing, but it was what I could get, even if the smooth bushing was what I wanted both to be. I used polyimide tape (aka Kapton tape) to insulate some of the vias or to insulate the parts from the vias just to be safe. Because the fan I was using had only 2 wires (and a two-position connector), I used a two-position header. I think it was after the boards came when I realised that the fan I had to cool the voltage regulator was 45mm and not 40mm, and I bought Noctua's 40×10mm fan as the fix.



I also found an interesting pattern on the bottom of the relay (I'm used to relay pottings not showing any sort of pattern).



It was a couple days later where I had it assembled.

Mostly finished in its mockup location, bottom rear 3/4 view, bottom front 3/4 view with a leg removed.

I forgot which of Arctic's fans I used, but it eventually was replaced with the 80mm be quiet! fans that were in Pod's old case. Not too much to talk about with the work done on the ABS sheets, I used calipers to mark the locations of the screwholes and did my best to drill everything on location and as straight as possible.

It was after some usage that the fans just randomly shut off, and I don't think I thought anything of it until it did it again while giving off a smell similar to tooth dust. What had happened was that the tantalum cap went out, and that I had put it backwards because I thought the banded side of the cap was negative. I dunno where the standard for banding the positive side of tantalum caps came from, but I thought it was similar to SMT electrolytic caps and diodes. Anyway, I had spares, so I just plopped a new one on in the correct orientation and I was on my way. A weird thing about this board is that to be able to get to to 9 volts or 12 volts (I leave it at 5 volts by default), I have to switch it to 12 volts for a few seconds before I can either switch to 9 volts for 9 volts or switch to 5 volts and then back to 12 for 12 volts. There's actually a specific thing that I'm actually suppposed to do for proper initialisation (preferrably with an MCU) that Dangerous Prototypes found, but I was only concerned with the D+ and D- voltages back then.

Oh right, I did do a test where I pulled 9 and 12 volts for a bit with the 40mm fan disconnected, and the regulator did get warm/hot as expected, but with the 40mm fan on at 9 and 12 volts, the regulator and board stay cool. I thought I overengineered the board, but it seems like I actually did it just right. The 40mm fan kinda tries to spin at 5 volts, but it's not enough voltage in the pulse for the fan to turn. I think Noctua says the startup voltage is about 6 volts? Anyway, if I give a little nudge when the pulse happens (might just before, I don't remember), the fan will start moving (the fan runs at 5 volts, but won't start at 5 volts). I can also just give the fan 9 or 12 volts to get it spinning and then switch it to 5 volts, but there's no reason for the fan to spin at 5 volts.

I kinda had a thought to redo this board with an MCU because it would get rid of the relays and make the board a little more compact in z-height (especially if I move everything to the side with the USB B connector), but this board works just fine and I'm not sure I want to spend the time on the redesign. If I did redesign the board, I would likely tent the vias and then have certain vias exposed for heat dissipation.

01 July 2021

Adafruit's Debounce CircuitPython Library

I think it was after whatever previous post that I had mentioned it, I decided to tinker with it some within the Powermate (I also was partially annoyed with the button's input behaviour that I programmed). After making the necessary changes (importing, assigning, etc.), I changed the if statements to look for rise or fall instead of the button value, and didn't have much luck getting it to work while tweaking the code. I ended up just undoing all of the changes and leaving the tinkering for another day.

Last Friday, I decided to give it another whirl (I think I was thinking about it the night before and figured something out that would probably make it work) and made the necessary changes once again. I don't remember exactly what I did, but I did use .rose and .fell in conjunction with .value to get it working. I also already had a counter implemented in the old code that counted the amount of cycles the button was being held for, and I had also changed it to accomodate the new sleep time of 10ms (since the debouncer class defaults to 10ms cycles). I found from the library documentation that there's also .current_duration and .last_duration and kinda played with those a bit, but .last_duration didn't seem to be that useful (or at least for me). I tried using .current_duration for the profile switching, but it ended up being problematic, so I changed it back to read from the counter system. I left .current_duration where it turns the LEDs to the colour of the current profile because it works fine and it doesn't matter if I use that or my counter system there. I also had tried .current_duration with what the button does when pressed, but didn't work well.

With the script for mine fixed up, I fixed the one for my friend and gave him the library and the new code, even if his button just toggles the LEDs on or off. Button definitely works a lot better than the old code, and definitely planning on using the debouncer library where possible.

PSU Tester

With the power supply problem I had with Pod, I kinda wanted to make my own PSU tester (I sah "Bah!" to the ones I can buy), and I just took some notes down and kinda forgot about it. I decided to use the ATSAMD21E18A-A because it has six analogue input pins, which is more than enough, and I had to figure out the resistor values for the the voltage dividers that would bring 5 and 12 volts down to 1.65 (half of 3.3 volts). I had also gathered some parts that I would need for it and shoved them into my notes, and I also have notes to have a switch to be able to change the 12-volt rail to be checked. I thought to use the leftover NeoPixel Nano 2020 LEDs for indication, but later I thought that an LCD or OLED screen would be a little better.

I also looked up how to measure negative voltages, and wasn't surprised when I found the answer was op-amps. I also found out that the pwr_ok signal is actually a timed thing and the voltage on it should come on no sooner than 100ms, so I added that piece of info to my notes. I really don't have a lot done with this project since it actually was started after the MCU/CircuitPython project "craze", and I didn't feel like working on the board much past plopping some of the planned items down. I have notes that I might need a crystal, but I also have no idea where the power for the MCU is going to come from. Ideally, I'd like to keep it separate from the power supply, but it's another decision to make before working on the project more. I probably will just add the crystal and its capacitors in anyway, but we'll see.

Character LCD Clock

I think I was browsing Adafruit when I saw some character LCDs, and also their character LCD backpack. The description mentions 20×4 displays, which is the same size that I use at work for a couple products, but there was the problem that the backpack has the connections in a straight line while the LCDs at work have a row of eight on each side of the board. Because of the incompatibility, I kinda brushed it off for a bit. I think later I went to check the datasheet and compared the pinouts, which proves that it is compatible, but not without some sort of adapter. I decided to grab a spare LCD board from work and an LCD that was literally just collecting dust, and made my own I²C character LCD adapter board with Adafruit's as the basis. (I was fairly hyped about I²C back then because of its use of only two MCU pins to be able to communicate with numerous devices, but also I only had a Trinket M0 as a dev board at the time, so I didn't have a lot of pins to work with. Also, this is probably where I learned about the MCP23008.)

Said adapter board.

Since the LCD board is laid out weird, I decided to place the board directly over the majority of the used pins and then run some wires over to the other portion. Because the top side of the board would be the side that directly faces the LCD board, I put all the parts on the bottom side and just reserved the top side for the header and wires (where the bottom side of the board would be where the wires are soldered to the board). More wires were used for the connection to the Trinket M0, but with the "Dupont" socket connectors on the end of them. I should have crimped the connectors on before soldering the wires to the board, but I think I thought it would be okay, and well, I had to resolder one of the wires because the Trinket M0 was having troubles picking it up or something.

Adapter board before the header. I took this as a reference of what colours was what signal.

It did work fine though, but it seemed a bit slow to display, and seemed like lyrics being displayed for a song. I thought it might be some sort of lag or something with the I²C line since the I²C lines were being held up at 5 volts and not 3.3, but I decided to put it aside since I was pretty much done with the tinkering. I was poking around Mouser for character LCDs (to see what kinds there were), and I found an 8×2 character display that has a 2×7 header, which is more convient for custom boards. I forgot how I decided on making a clock with it where the top line would display the time in ISO format (HH:MM:SS) and the second line would display the date in some way. I think I decided with having a format like "30 Jun" and then having the day of the week displayed, but the problem of only having one character was a problem. At first I wanted to stay with Roman characters and looked around other langauages for their days of the week hoping that there would be at least one that has a different first letter for each day of the week. I did find one, but I only kept it in mind as a sort of alternative. I know I also was deciding on using Japanese (and also Chinese, I think) days of the week, but I was having troubles translating the kanji into "pixel art". I ended up with finding a font called PixelMplus, but it took me entirely too long to figure out how to install it before I realised I didn't download the one from the blog page. (It's the second link, but I think I might've scrolled past it without seeing it.) Anyway, it has two pixel sizes of 10 and 12, and I used the kanji from the 10-pixel size to try to make a 5×8 pixel version, but it was just not working out for some of the kanji. While I think I had TU and TH already done before I was trying the kanji stuff, SU and SA were giving me problems because of the S, and was why I was kinda seeking alternatives, but I did eventually figure something out.

The four doubled-up characters. This page was used for doing this, which Adafruit points to in a guide.

I eventually found an I²C isolation board that was a new product at Adafruit and decided to buy it with some STEMMA QT cables so that I could pass 5 volts and ground to the other side of the isolator. Trying it out, it did work fine, but it still had that slow display problem, which I figured to be the that I²C probably isn't fast enough to draw all four lines of the display "instantly" like I remember from the work products. I think it's when I got the ItsyBitsy M4 when I actually had enough pins to directly drive the 4-bit communication instead of having to go through a GPIO expander, and when I had it all set up, it was like it should. There is a slight lag with the last line, but it's still fast enough. I also want to test 8-bit communication, but I'd probably have to write my own library for that.

Anyway, for the board of this project, I started with using the ATSAMD21E18A-A because I wasn't going to need a lot of pins. I was planning on having the RTC set to local time and having a switch to control DST, but eventually I figured it'd probably be better to have the RTC as UTC time instead because it'd be easier to change the timezone offset in the code than have to set the RTC to the new time (if I moved or something). This presented a problem because there was no easy way to properly adjust the date and time (had this just been the time, then it would've been fine). Because the adafruit_datetime library is thirty-something kilobytes in size, I didn't have enough room on the MCU's flash to have it, the other libraries, and the code.


My options were to either tack an SPI flash chip onto the MCU or to use the ATSAMD51J19A-A, which has double the onboard flash, and for the second revision, I decided to make a board for both routes. As maybe obvious from the notes in the first board, I needed to put the MCU on the bottom of the board and turn it so that I have access to more SERCOM pins, since the first board uses some of the SERCOM pins for the LCD. The reason why I originally had all the parts on top was because they then would be inbetween the board and the LCD and a little better protected from ESD, so while I didn't want to do a board with them and the SPI chip on the bottom, I did anyway.

Tentative second revision.

For the ATSAMD51J route, I had less board space to work with, but I still made it work with everything on top of the board like I wanted. I think it was sometime after I finished this board where I was playing with using the analogue out pin for controlling the contrast, since I'd have a lot more control than a variable resistor as a voltage divider. (The LCD from work says to give the contrast pin about 0.6 volts, and so dividing the voltage from 5 volts makes it a very small window to work with. While I could change the input of the voltage divider to 3.3 volts from the regulator, it wouldn't give me much more to work with.) Making the change removed the variable resistor and its traces and freed up a little bit of space. The second change to make was the fact that the MCU wouldn't have any timekeeping pulses, and because the RTC has the 32kHz output, I was able to just run the trace up to the oscillator in pin (PA00) and connect a pull-up between it and 3.3 volts.


I think it was before removing the voltage divider that I found that the adafruit_datetime library also uses "a bunch of memory" and I might've done some testing to confirm this, but I don't remember. Regardless though, the ATSAMD51 route was the route that I would take because of it.

The SERCOM multiplexing thing started with this project because I wanted to try to have a sort of "direct" connection between the RTC and MCU, but from the Adafruit dev board schematics and how things were set up for those dev boards, my knowledge was limited. PA08 and PA09 are usually the default I²C lines and the alternatives were PA16 and PA17 for one, and PA22 and PA23 for another (assuming those were exposed pins, I don't remember at this point since Adafruit has board names for them that they use instead). After getting the whole SERCOM thing straight, I found that I was able to use PA17 with PA22 because they're both on SERCOM 3. (My explanation on SERCOM multiplexing is in the previous post.)

Whenever I do have this board made and have the MCU for it, it'll be the test for the RTC's 32kHz output as the MCU's crystal, since this board is going to be cheaper than the MCU internet clock one. I'm sure it'll work fine, but I remember not really being able to find any info besides this thread.